Southeast Asia is home to many cultural traditions, which gave birth to plenty of crafts centered around fabrics and weaving, a practice deeply intertwined with identity and heritage across the region.
In the Philippines, diverse weaving traditions thrive uniquely in different regions. Fabrics like the Ilocos' Abel using cotton fibers, South Cotabato's T’nalak using abaca fibers and the indigenous T’boli’s usage of abaca fiber for textile, and Palawan being the the forefront of the piña weaving industry all embody local stories and community values. These fabrics are not merely products; they are repositories of personal narratives of the weavers and embody cultural knowledge passed down through generations.
However, these traditions face challenges today, particularly from environmental degradation impacting natural material availability and, at the same time, textile production is also blamed for causing severe impact on the environment. Efforts are underway to ensure environmental sustainability and to engage younger generations in preserving these intricate weaving practices, crucial for safeguarding cultural continuity in the face of modern pressures.
Weaving conservation into a sustainable practice
In the Philippines, there are about 450 weaving groups, representing around 5,000 weavers who contributed an estimated P150 million to the country’s economy in 2020. Traditionally a personal activity, weaving has become a source of livelihood for many women, turning it into a cottage industry. While small, this industry plays a crucial role in preserving cultural heritage and providing economic opportunities in rural communities, showcasing the skill and artistry of Filipino weavers to the world.
Industrialization, mass production, globalization, digitization, and even environmental degradation have pressured the weaving industry, driving changes in production technology and market access. Nevertheless, these advancements have also left many behind, including the weavers.
Margareta Mala's efforts in Indonesia showcase how weaving can preserve cultural heritage sustainably. In 2018, with growing interest in Tenun—a technique of making fabric by weaving different colors of threads using a traditional loom—Mala led young Iban women to revive the practice by blending tradition with conservation. She founded two communities: Endo Segadok for experienced weavers and Generasi Lestari to educate young Iban women. Together, 58 women are involved.
The community uses natural dyes from their forest to maintain cultural and conservation value, while factory-made threads replace the lost cotton plants. Sacred patterns requiring rituals are kept within the culture and not sold. Instead of selling, which requires rituals, they remain part of their culture and are not sold to customers.
They also use 'adopting' rather than 'purchasing' the fabric, emphasizing the unique relationship between the weavers and those who decide to adopt the product. This approach fosters a sense of connection and responsibility, as the adopter becomes the custodian of Iban culture for years to come.
Mala and her community have made significant strides in generating alternative income and empowering young Iban women to pursue weaving or organizing tours as their primary source of livelihood. This not only provides an alternative to working at plantations but also enhances their overall quality of life. Mala expressed hope that their efforts and outcomes can serve as a valuable model for communities, both locally and globally, emphasizing the significance of conservation and sustainability and their impact on those involved in traditional weaving.
To ensure that the community benefits equitably, the revenues generated are distributed among community members. Presently, the tenun produced by Mala and her community is priced between IDR 3,000,000 and 10,000,000 (US$300-US$700).
Similarly, the Philippines has long been at the forefront of natural textile development, championing the use of Philippine Tropical fabrics made from cotton, pineapple, abaca, and bamboo, woven and treated using low-impact or natural dyeing methods. The Department of Science and Technology-Philippine Textile Research Institute (DOST-PTRI) continues to develop these methods to foster a more sustainable textile industry—a collective effort involving the government, academia, industry, and communities.
The narrative of Mala and her community, integrating culture into conservation efforts, serves as a valuable lesson for other Southeast Asian communities, particularly those led by women. The involvement of everyone in conservation efforts that support the most affected communities is crucial, especially when it presents an opportunity to preserve and adopt a piece of cultural heritage.
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